SURFING'S GREATEST MISADVENTURES
Stories that go beyond thrills and spills, penetrating deeper into the culture . . . in the end, what's remarkable is how moving the stories can be, they stick in the memory with two commonalities. Each of the stories seem to arise from the surfers' sense of invincible possibility (for pleasure, passion, movement, escape, the perfect moment, or whatever lies out there); and the surfers indefatigable wanting and seeking eventually leads them a bit too deep on the surfer's continuum, which has at one end pure joy and at the other horror, with absurdity and mockery in the middle. Stories in voice
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